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How To Fit A Tumble Dryer Motor ( PART 1 ) On A Hotpoint, Creda, Indesit, Ariston Machine

How To Fit A Tumble Dryer Motor ( PART 1 ) On A Hotpoint, Creda, Indesit, Ariston Machine


bjbj Hi welcome to apart4u video tutorials
this video tutorial will be shown to you by Dave; he will take you through a step by step
procedure in repairing this appliance This tutorial is on how to determine why the drum
on your Hotpoint TDL30 tumble dryer is not going round, but it will also cover some other
models in the Hotpoint, Creda, Indesit and Ariston range of tumble dryers as well You
may want to use a small container or two to hold the screws when you remove them because
not all the screws are the same size so make a note where the larger ones fit, or you could
be left with small screws going into holes made by the bigger ones Switch the machine
off from the power supply and remove the plug Now remove all the screws holding the top
on there s normally about two but you could have a few more
It depends on your make and model just how
the top comes off you may need to just push it back or you could have to lift it first
to remove it. If the belt is still in position and tight, try turning the drum by hand if
you can then the motor has not seized up and you can now move onto the next stage Connect
your meter to one of the plug pins and put the other end onto the appropriate connection
in the terminal block on the dryer if you get a reading then you have continuity so
that wire s OK now try the other terminal and plug pin, if that s the same it means
the fuse is fine and you have power from the plug to the machine Make sure the machine
door s shut then connect one probe from your meter to the brown wire in the terminal block
and the other onto the appropriate wire on the timer (in this case orange and white)
but you d need to follow the wire up from the door switch to the timer on your machine
to know which terminal it fits on and the correct colour ve already removed the side
panel here so you can see the wires on the bottom of the door switch and the timer connections
If you get a reading then you have continuity through the door switch to the timer so that
s OK Now test the blue wire from the terminal block to the timer, it s not always the live
wire that s at fault sometimes you get a break in the neutral as well To check the motor
you ll need to remove one of the side panels on this machine the right hand side panel
gives best access to the wiring The front fixings are hidden behind the consol panel
and kick strip so first remove the consol panel, which is held on by these two screws
but be careful because there right close to the point of other screws and there difficult
to hold, so a magnetic screwdriver would be really useful. A little tip if you use an
old tea towel or piece of cloth and drape it over the timer knob then grip it with a
pair of pliers you can pull the knob off without damaging it Now slide the panel to the right
and unhook it from the cabinet If your machine has options switches remove the wires, this
has only one switch so I needn t worry about labelling them but if you have more than one
switch pair them up and label which switch they fit on for reassembling Remove the screws
holding the top of the panel on, there is one on top and two in front on this machine
Here you can see the different size of the screws, the small one fits on the top of the
panel and the larger one fits on the front The kick strip will just pull off then you
can remove the screw on the outer edge Tilt the machine over then you can undo the screws
along the bottom edge The only thing holding the panel on now is about half a dozen screws
along the back edge, so remove those and the panel should come off If you ve not done so
already make sure you undo the wire holding the cables on the panel
Use an insulated handled screwdriver and short
out the terminals on the capacitor before touching it, or you may get an electric shock,
because they can hold a charge for a short time after being disconnected from the power
supply. Now disconnect the wires from the capacitor…it may have 4 terminals or just
2 as this one has the 4 wires here are joined by link spade connectors now without getting
too involved with the principles of the induction motor, I ll just say there are 2 sets of windings
in these motors, the start windings and the run windings. The capacitor gives a sharp
boost to the start windings just to get the motor turning then the run windings take over
and the motor carries on running .if either of these windings become faulty then the motor
wont start or wont run the single wire not connected to the capacitor is a neutral and
you should get a reading on your meter if connected to this and either of the other
two motor wires if not you have a faulty motor As you can see the motor on this machine is
fine but this video is on how to locate a fault and change a motor so for the sake of
argument let s say the motor is faulty and we ll continue from there Remove the cable
tie and separate the wires you should have a link terminal connected to one of the motor
wires and another connected to a timer wire this way you just have to remember which single
terminal wire goes with which link terminal if you have a camera take a photo or at least
make a note. The neutral wire is blue from the timer and on this machine white from the
motor but the connectors are encased so you can t confuse them The belt will come off
easily enough if you just ease it away from the motor while turning the drum The next
step is to remove the bearing cover and then undo all the screws on the heater cover if
you re doing it by hand it s a very tedious job, but remember to continue segregating
the screws, although the ones on this cover are all the same size All the parts used in
this and other videos are available from our web site at apart4u.co.uk, just enter your
model number in the search bar on the site and you ll get a list of parts for that machine.
With the cover off you now have access to the motor fan Use an 8mm socket or spanner
and remove the three self tapping screws holding the fan blade onto the motor shaft Tilt the
cabinet to one side and remove the three fixing screws holding the motor mounting to the machine
base remember to hold the motor from inside when you remove the last screw You can now
remove the motor s still attached to the mounting frame by one screw at the fan end and two
at the pulley end remember this for refitting or take a photo because the motor can be fitted
back to front The torques screws on this machine are size 25 but may differ on other machines
and don t rely on the screw holds for alignment when it comes to refitting because they may
not be threaded in which case you ll have to cut the thread yourself This was the first
of a two part video the second part is on replacing the motor and reassembling the machine
When it comes to repairing this or any other machine remember you re not in a race so take
your time and look at what you re doing, especially regarding wiring and relevant colours or connections,
don t just pull all the wires off in one go make sure you know where they fit, if possible
tale a photo or make a diagram, because 5 minutes spent at the start of a job can save
hours later on We hope this video was useful to you, and remember to shop online at apart4u.co.uk
because this is how we re able to finance making these videos. Thanks for watching hb#8
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This tutorial is on
how to determine why the drum on your Hotpoint TDL30 tumble dryer is not going round, but
it will also cover some other models in the Hotpoint, Creda, Indesit and Ariston range
of tumble dryers as well Dave Normal Dave Microsoft Office Word selfix This tutorial
is on how to determine why the drum on your Hotpoint TDL30 tumble dryer is not going round,
but it will also cover some other models in the Hotpoint, Creda, Indesit and Ariston range
of tumble dryers as well Title Microsoft Office Word 97-2003 Document MSWordDoc Word.Document.8

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